Some important items are commonly missed in FOCUS ON ENERGY® incentive application for DIY attic insulation and air sealing. Here are some tips to help you complete your project safely and receive the incentive:
Heat Sources (Chimney)
Recessed lights, metal flue pipes (furnaces, boilers, water heaters and dryer vents), masonry chimneys, cooking stove/range hood exhaust vents and exhaust fans with heat lamps/electric heaters all have the potential to become hot and start a fire if they make contact with certain materials. For instructions on the proper way to safely insulate heat sources, refer to our Installation Guide.
Building codes usually require 3 inches of clearance from metal flues and masonry chimneys to any combustible material including insulation. Not having the required non-combustible material and/or clearance is a safety hazard for you and may create problems when selling or insuring your home.
In the winter, air leaking from the home brings heat and moisture into the attic. Most insulation won’t stop leaks and the air can create serious comfort and durability issues, like ice dams. Be sure to always air seal first.
Fan Duct Work
Bathroom and kitchen exhaust fans are important for removing moisture and indoor air contaminants out of the home, especially once proper air sealing is completed. Unfortunately, excessive or twisted ductwork can prevent fans from proper operation. When installing an exhaust fan:
- Make sure the fan is securely connected and the duct is as short and straight as possible.
- Duct work should be mechanically fastened along its length and to both the fan and the exterior exhaust port.
- If you must curve your duct work, be sure curves are gentle and not sharp zigzags.
- Use rigid metal duct whenever possible.
- Insulate the duct to at least R8.
- Make sure the fan is vented outside the home, and not into the attic or out to the eave, the overhanging area of the outer edge of your home.